Archive for the ‘Do it Yourself’ Category

Being able to deal confidently with simple household repairs is an important part of running a home with the minimum of fuss and expense. Many common problems – blocked drains, overflowing cisterns or even noisy pipes – are often very easy to remedy if you are prepared to spend a little time and effort on them. More importantly, you will save a great deal of unnecessary expense by tackling the job yourself rather than calling an expert to deal with it.

Renovating a Bath

Acrylic: use a hard paint such as radiator enamel to paint out marks on this type of bath. Small chips in the surface can also be repaired using a2-part car-repair filler (spackle). Mix the filler following the instruct ions on the packet and mix a little paint colour into the paste to blend with the bath. When the filler is hard, rub it down with wet-and-dry sandpaper, keeping this wet as you work.

Enamel: heavy lime scale deposits can etch into the surface of a bath. Remove these using a chemical limescale remover applied with a brush. Chips in the enamel coating of a bath can lead to the metal rusting. Use limescale remover to shift any rust stains around the chips, and, when dry, sand with an emery cloth to remove loose particles. Re-paint with enamel paint, blending colours if necessary to achieve a perfect match.

Bond simple breaks in pottery with a 2-part epoxy resin or PVA (white) glue. Use cyanoacrylate adhesives for fine breaks and porcelain. Multiple breaks should only be glued piece by piece and allowed to dry between stages. Using acrylic paints, it is possible to ‘hide’ cracks and even to replace parts of a missing pattern if you fill the area with Plaster of Paris arid carefully paint over. Repaired china and pottery will never he as strong as it was formerly, so do not use it in an oven, or to carry hot foods or drinks.

Repairing China

Clean new breaks thoroughly using ethylated spirits and a lint-free cloth before gluing the pieces together with a cyanoacrylate (super glue). Badly repaired breaks will show in time. Start by removing the old glue in hot, soapy water, using an old toothbrush. Apply neat bleach to stains along the crack, using cotton buds (swabs). Rinse and repeat until the stain disappears.

Having cleaned the broken edges thoroughly, apply a cyanoacrylate (superglue), following the manu6ciurer’sIstructions carefully.

Press the broken edges together for a few seconds, then apply strips of masking tape to hold the pieces securely. Leave to dry, and repeat with the other broken pieces.

An Overflowing Cistern

If the ball-float allows too much water into the cistern, the water could start to run out of the overflow pipe. Older-style Portsmouth-type valves can be adjusted by bending the metal float arm down. When full, the cistern’s water level should be about 2.5 cm/I in below the overflow. If the problem is caused by corrosion or scale, the Portsmouth valves may have failed and the washer may have worn away too.

Newer cisterns have plastic diaphragm valves. The float arm can be adjusted by the screw that is secured with a lockout. Release the locknut, then turn the screw towards the valve to reduce the amount of water. Re-tighten the locknut afterwards.

Radiator ‘Cold Spots’

These are usually caused by air becoming locked inside the top of the radiator and preventing the water from reaching the whole of the inside. Hold a rag under the square valve and, using the radiator key gently release it until the air starts to hiss out. When the hissing stops and water starts to dribble out, close it up again. If the air released from the radiator smell of gas, it could be due to corrosion in the system. If this is the case, ask a central-heating engineer for advice. Hold a cloth underneath a radiator valve to catch any drips as the air is released.

Repairing a  Diaphragm Valve

1. If the rubber diaphragm has worn or its action been disrupted by debris in the water, turn off the water supply. Dismantle the valve and lay out the parts in the order they come off, to make re-assembly easier.
2. Clean the diaphragm valve with warm, soapy water or, if it is damaged, replace it with a new one. Turn on the water to flush out any debris and then replace the diaphragm, ensuring that the rim faces inwards. Re-assemble the valve.

Repairing a Portsmouth Valve

1. Turn off the water supply and unscrew the cap at the end of the valve. If the cap is tight or rusted, use pliers to loosen before taking it off.
2. Dismantle the valve by removing the split pin securing the float arm. If this is nary it may snap, so have a spare split pinto hand.
3. Push the valve plug out with a screw-driver and clean it thoroughly, inside and out, using wire wool.
4. Screw the valve cap by turning a screwdriver in the slot of the valve plug and remove the washer. Replace the washer with a new one if necessary and re-assemble the plug and valve.

Unclogging a Sink

If the water will not run out of the sink, place a sink plunger over the plug and cover overflow with a damp cloth. Pump the plunger hard up and down a few times to release the blockage.

If the blockage still remains, hold a large dish or other container beneath the U-bend under the sink. Keep the plug in the sink, then unscrew the U-bend, remove it for cleaning and then replace it.

If the obstruction is not in the U-bend, probe a piece of chick wire or an unravelled wire coat hanger into the wastepipe to hook out the blockage.

The main problem with painting doors— or indeed any woodwork with a large surface — involves keeping what professional decorators call a ‘wet edge’. Obviously, the door has to be painted bit by bit, and, if the edge of one area begins to dry before this is joined up to the next area, the join will show when the paint dries completely.

The secret of success is to work in an ordered sequence, as shown in these illustrations of flush and panelled doors, and to complete the painting job in one continuous operation, working as fast as is reasonably possible. Windows are more difficult to paint than doors because they contain so many different surfaces, especially small-paned types criss-crossed with slim glazing bars (muntins). There is also the additional problem of paint: straying on to the glass. The ideal is a neat paint line that covers the bedding putty and extends on to the glass surface by about 3inches to seal the joint and prevent condensation from running down between putty and glass.

Remove the window hardware before you start painting. On casement windows, tap a nail into the bottom edge of the casement and into the lower frame rebate and then link them with stiff wire to stop the casement irons swinging about.

For the best results, remove sash windows from their frames before painting. Modem spring-mounted windows are easy to release from their frames. With older cord-operated types, remove the staff beads (window-stops) first to free the sashes. Although quite a major task, take the opportunity to renew the sash cords (pulley ropes).This makes it possible to cut the cords to free the window.

PAINTING A PANELLED DOOR

1. Tackle a paneled door by painting the moldings (1) around the recessed panels first. Take care not to let paint build up in the corners or to stray on to the faces of the cross rails at this stage. Next, paint the recessed panels (2).
2. Paint the horizontal cross-rails (3), brushing lightly inwards towards the pale red panel moldings to leave a sharp pattern edge. Feather out the paint thinly where it runs onto the vertical tiles at each end of the rails.
3. Finish the door by painting the vertical center rail (4) and the tiles (5), again brushing inwards towards the panel moldings. Where the rail abuts the cross-rails, finish with light brushstrokes parallel to the cross-rails.

Varnishing Wood

1. On bare wood, use a clean lint-free cloth to wipe the first coat on to the wood, working along the grain direction. When it is dry, sand it lightly and then wipe off the dust.
2. Brush on the second and subsequent coats of varnish, applying them along the grain and linking up adjacent areas using light brushstrokes

PAINTING A FLUSH DOOR

Remove the door furniture and wedge open the door. Divide it up into 10 imaginary squares, and start at the top by filling in the first square. Finish the paint out towards the door edges so that it does not build up on external angles. Paint the next block at the top of the door. Blend the 2 areas with horizontal brushstrokes, then with light, vertical laying-off strokes.

Continue to work down the door surface block by block, blending the wet edges of adjacent blocks together as you paint them. Always aim to complete a flush door in 1 session to prevent the joints between blocks showing up as hard lines. Replace the door furniture when the paint is touch-dry.

PAINTING AROUND GLASS

1. Stick masking tape to the glass with its edge 3 mm/in from the wood. Paint the surrounding wood, removing the tape when the paint is touch-dry.
2. Alternatively, hold a small paint shield against the edge of the glazing bar (muntin) or the surrounding moulding while you paint. Wipe the shield regularly to prevent smears.

Many paint effects are based on a few simple techniques. These can be used on their own or combined to produce an infinite variety of paint effects. The techniques shown here all use ultramarine blue emulsion (latex) paint mixed with acrylic scumble glaze and/or water to be able to compare the different effects possible. Two coats of silk finish white emulsion paint were rollered on as a base. Before you start a project practise these techniques first.

SPONGING

Dilute a little paint with a some water in a paint tray or saucer. Dip a damp, natural sponge into the paint and wipe off the excess on kitchen paper (paper towels). Dab the sponge on to the surface in different directions.

COLOUR WASHING

Dilute the paint with water and brush on randomly with cross-hatched brushstrokes, using a large decorator’s brush. A damp sponge will give a similar effect.

FROTTAGE

Dilute the paint with water or scumble. Apply paint with cross-hatched brushstrokes, then press a piece of tissue paper over the wet surface and peel it off.

DRAGGING

Mix paint with scumble glaze and brush on with cross-hatched brushstrokes. Drag a flat decorator’s brush through the glaze. The soft effect is achieved by going over the glaze again to break up the lines.

COMBING

Mix paint with acrylic scumble and brush on with cross-hatched brushstrokes. Run a metal or rubber graining comb through the wet glaze.

BRUSH OUT COLOUR GLAZE

This soft, patchy wall finish is pure country. It is traditionally achieved using either a very runny colourwash or an oil-based glaze tinted with oil colour, over eggshell paint. The technique below gives the same effect but is easier to achieve. Wallpaper paste adds a translucency to the colour and PVA (white) glue seals the surface when dry.

1. Paint the wall with a plain, light emulsion (latex) colour. Mix the glaze, using 1 part PVA (white) glue, 5 parts water and 1 part wallpaper paste. Tint it with three 20 cm/8 in squirts from an acrylic or gouache tube, or about 15 ml/1 tbsp of powder paint. Vary the intensity of colour to your own taste. Get the feel of the glaze and brush, and adjust the colour at this stage if necessary.
2. Begin applying the glaze in an area of the room that will he hidden by furniture or pictures; as your technique improves you will be painting the more obvious areas. Start near the top of the wall, dabbing glaze on with the brush and then sweeping it over the surface with random strokes.
3. The effect will be streaky and the brushstrokes will show. So after about 5 minutes, brush the surface lightly with your brush but don’t use any glaze. The brush will pick up any surplus glaze on the surface and leave a softer, less streaky effect. When working on edges and corners, apply the glaze and then brush it away from the corner or edge.

CRACKLE GLAZE

Brush on a coat of water-based crackle glaze and leave to dry. Using a well-laden brush, apply paint carefully on top so that you lay, rather than brush, it over the surface. Work quickly and do not over-brush an area already painted. If you have missed an area, touch it in when the paint has dried. Seal with acrylic varnish.

STONE WALL EFFECT

1. Paint the wall with cream emulsion (latex). Leave to dry and then mix a glaze of 1 part raw umber acrylic paint to 6 parts scumble. Stipple this on to the wall. Leave to dry. Mix a glaze with the white acrylic paint in the same way. Dampen a sponge and apply the glaze over the stippling, varying your hand position
2. Using a softening brush, skim gently over the white glaze while it is still wet. Now mix a glaze with the yellow ochre paint as in step 1, but this time rub it into the wall with a cloth. Leave some areas of white glaze showing. Using another dampened cloth, rub some areas to disperse the paint. Leave to dry.

‘POWDERY’ PAINT FINISH

This paint finish imitates the opaque, soft colour and powdery bloom of distemper, the wall finish most used an oil-based glaze tinted with oil colour, over eggshell paint. The technique below gives the same effect but is easier

1. Prepare the walls by stripping off any wallpaper down to the bare plaster. Spread filler irregularly with a spatula to simulate the uneven texture of old plaster. Use thin layers and apply randomly from different directions. Don’t worry about overdoing the effect; you can always rub it back with sandpaper when it’s dry, after an hour.
2. Blend the dried filler into the original wall surface using rough-grade sandpaper, leaving rougher areas for a more obvious distressed effect. Mix water-based paint with water in the ratio 2 parts water to1 part paint. Stir the paint well: it should have the consistency of single cream.
3. Begin painting at ceiling height. The paint is likely to splash a bit, so protect any surfaces. Use the paintbrush randomly rather than in straight lines, and expect a patchy effect — it will fade as the paint dries. The second coat needs to be stronger, so use less water in the mixture. Apply the second coat in the same way, working the brush into any cracks or rough plaster areas. Two hours later, the ‘bloom’ of the powdery finish will appear.

• Buy a pack of change-of-address cards, or fill one out and photocopy it to save time writing out dozens. Ensure that your insurance company, bank, credit card issuer, pension company, and all the other businesses you deal with know of your move.
• Arrange building and contents insurance at the new house to start on the day you move in.
• Cancel regular deliveries of groceries or newspapers.
• Arrange by telephone, and confirm in writing, transfers of the electricity, gas, water and telephone accounts. Before leaving, read the meters.
• Make arrangements for the gas, electricity and water to be switched on at the new house.

House-moving preparations

If you intend to use a professional removal company, contact 2 or 3 different removal companies as soon as you know that the move is on and ask them to visit and quote for the job. Ask neighbors or friends for their recommendations, too, as they may be able to offer useful advice on local companies. Firms which are reluctant to visit may he best avoided, as a guessed estimate may cause problems on the day if they do not know, for instance, that there will be a spiral staircase, low doors or an attic or loft stashed with boxes to cope with.
When the removal men arrive, point out anything that may make parking near the house a problem, and remember to tell them if they are likely to encounter difficulties at the new address. Show items requiring careful handling such as antiques, computer or hi-fi (stereo) equipment, as well as anything that has to be dismantled before it can be moved such as large wardrobes (closets). Giving all this information at the start will make the removal company’s quotation as accurate as possible and prevent a nasty surprise when the bill arrives.

Removal insurance

Always read the small print on the documentation and check that the house contents will be insured for the duration of the move. Many removal firms’ contracts state that you must let them know within 10 days of the move if anything is damaged or missing. Be sure to open every box and inspect the contents thoroughly as soon as you arrive, even if they remain otherwise untouched for weeks afterward. Most firms will pack and unpack the contents themselves, but may give a discount if you do it yourself. This could affect the insurance cover, however, so check this before you decide.
Check your own house-contents insurance, as it is likely that the insurance will not cover items lost or damaged during a move. If necessary, ask the company to extend the cover.

Hiring (renting) a van

Doing the move yourself is cheaper, but driving a large van packed with furniture can be an alarming experience if you are unused to it. Unless you are fit and reasonably strong and can spar ethe time, it can in fact end up being a false economy. Hiring (renting) a van and driver could be a happy medium —check whether you will he charged extra for mileage, or whether the price quoted is inclusive. Wrap plates individually and pack them vertically to minimize the risk of breakages.

Packing

Begin packing a few weeks ahead of the move. Start with items in the attic or loft that you rarely use — this is also a good time to throw out items that you no longer need. Additional, purely decorative items and ornaments can also he wrapped up at this early stage.
Collect boxes from the supermarket and save newspapers for packing items. Buy bubble wrap (padded plastic wrapping, available from stationers) to protect delicate or easily marked items. Use large but manageable boxes, mark each lid with a bold pen to show which room it belongs in at the new house. Alternatively, place a colour-coded label on the box, for example, blue for the bathroom, yellow for the kitchen, green for the living room, and so on. When you arrive at the new house, stick matching labels on the relevant door to each room so that the removal company knows exactly where everything needs to go. When labelling boxes, give details of the contents (e.g., kitchen pans and crockery; food processor and attachments) so that you do not spend frustrating time trying to find one item.
Line boxes containing china with a thick layer of bubble wrap or with scrunched-up paper to protect the contents. Wrap plates in paper or bubble wrap and stack them vertically in the boxes. In the event of the box being knocked or dropped, the plates will be less likely to crack if the weight is not resting on those at the bottom.
Leave soap, toiler paper, hand towels and tea- and coffee-making items (including cups and the kettle) until last, then pack them in a brightly coloured plastic box so that you can see it easily the instant you arrive. Pack tools, light bulbs, extension cables, spare fuses and screws in another brightly coloured box so that rooms can be lit and quick repairs undertaken.

Having decided on the style of garden that you want, and the features that you need to incorporate, tackle the much more difficult task of applying them to your own garden. The chances are that your garden will be the wrong size or shape, or the situation or outlook is inappropriate to the style of garden that you want. The way around this is to not try to create a particular style too closely.
If you can’t visualize the whole of your front garden as, say, a stone or Japanese garden, it may be possible to include the feature as an element within a more general design.
Most successful garden designs fall into one of the three basic patterns described below, though clever planting and variations on the themes almost always result in individual designs.
Circular theme: Circular themes are very effective at disguising the predictable shape of a rectangular garden. Circular lawns, circular patios, and circular beds are all options, and you only need to overlap and interlock a few circles to create a stylish garden. Plants fill the gaps between the curved areas and the straight edges.
Using a compass, try various combinations of circles to see whether you can create an attractive pattern. Be prepared to vary the radii and to overlap the circles if necessary.
Diagonal theme: This device creates a sense of space by taking the eye along and across the garden. Start by drawing grid lines at 45° to the house or main fence. Then draw in the design, using the grid as a guide.
Rectangular theme: Most people designing a garden use a rectangular theme based on a grid — even though they may not make a conscious effort to do so. The device is effective if you want to create a formal look, or wish to divide a long, narrow garden up into smaller sections.

How to make a scale drawing

To make a scale drawing, choose a scale that enables you to fit the garden on a single large sheet of graph paper. For most small gardens, a scale of 1:50 (2 cm to 1 m or 1/4 in to 1 ft) is about right. If your garden is large, try a scale of 1:100. Draw your base line (a long straight edge such as a fence) in first, then transfer the scale measurements. When the right-angle measurements have been transferred, draw in the relevant outlines.

Drawing the garden plan

Whether designing a garden from scratch or simply modifying what you already have you need to draw a plan of the garden as it is. A drawn plan will enable you to see the overall design clearly and to experiment with different ideas.
Stage 1: the basic grid: Make a rough sketch of your existing garden, add accurate measurements, then, make a scale drawing from this. Transfer the measurements to graph paper to create a scale plan of your garden, showing any permanent structures and features that you want to retain.
Now superimpose on to this grid the type of design you have in mind — one based on circles, rectangles or diagonals, for example. You can draw these directly onto your plan in a second colour, but if you think you might change your mind, draw the grid on a transparent overlay. Use grid lines1.8-2.4 m/6-8 ft apart for small areas.
Using an overlay, or a photocopy of your plan complete with grid, mark on the new features that you would like to include, in their positions. You might find it helpful to cut out pieces of scrap paper to an appropriate size and shape so that you can move them around.
Stage 2: the rough: Using an overlay or a photocopy, start sketching in your plan. If you can visualize an overall design, sketch this in first in as detailed a fashion as possible, then move around your features to fit into it. If you have not reached this stage, start by sketching in the features you have provisionally positioned though you may have to adjust them later.
You will need to make many attempts. Don’t he satisfied with the first one – it may be the best, but you won’t know this unless you explore a few other options first. Don’t worry too much about planting details at this stage, except perhaps for a few important focal plants.
Stage 3: the detailed drawing: Details such as the type of paving should be decided now – not only because it will help you to see the final effect, but also because you need to work to areas that use multiples of full blocks, slabs or bricks if possible. Draw in key plants, especially large trees and shrubs, but omit the more detailed planting plans at this stage.

Trying it out

Before ordering materials or starting construction, mark out as much of the design as possible in the garden. Use string and pegs to indicate the areas, then walk around them. If possible, take a look from an upstairs window. This will give a much better idea of the overall design and whether paths and sitting areas are large enough.
Use tall canes to indicate the positions of important plants and new trees. This will show how much screening they are likely to offer, and whether they may become a problem in time. By observing the shadow cast at various parts of the day, you’ll also know whether shade could be a potential problem – for other plants or for a sitting-out area. If your design includes irregularly shaped beds, use a length of garden hose or thick rope, adjusting the curves to roughly mark out the shape.

There are 3 types of decorative cornice commonly used in today’s homes. The first type is roving, a relative of sheet plasterboard (gypsum hoard), which consists of a concave hollow-hacked plaster core sheathed in a strong paper envelope. It is fixed in place with adhesive. The second is molded cornice; this is made either from traditional fibrous plaster or from modern foamed plastics to imitate the ornate decorative cornices often found in older buildings, and comes in a range of profiles. Plaster types must generally be secured in place with screws because of their weight, but plastic types can simply be stuck in position with adhesive. The third type is a machined wooden trim with a similar profile to plasterboard cornice, and is either nailed direct to the wall framing or to a nailing strip or barren (furring strip) in the angle of the wall and ceiling.

Apart from its decorative appearance in framing the ceiling, a cornice can also help to conceal unsightly cracks. These often open up around the ceiling perimeter as the ceiling expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity, or as the building settles.

FITTING A CORNICE (CROWN MOLDING)

1. Hold a length of cornice squarely in the wall/ceiling angle and draw 2 guidelines on the wall and ceiling surfaces. Cut any mitred edges.
2. Remove any old wall coverings from between the guidelines by dry scraping them. Cross hatch painted or bare plaster to key the surface.
3. Either mix up powder adhesive or use already mixed type. Using a flat scraper ‘butter’ the adhesive on to both edges of the rear of the cornice.
4. Press the length into place between the guidelines, supporting it if necessary with partly driven masonry nails. Remove the nails (if used) once the adhesive has set.
5. Fit the adjacent corner piece next. Here, the next section also incorporates an external mitre; measure and cut this carefully before fitting the length.
6. Complete the external comer with a further length of cornice, hurting the cut ends closely together and ensuring that the length fits between the lines.
7. Fill any slight gaps at external and internal angles with a little cellulose filler(spackle), applied with a filling knife (putty knife) to leave a crisp, clean joint, sand the filler smooth once it has hardened.
8. Before the adhesive hardens, use a damp sponge to remove any excess from wall and ceiling surfaces and also to smooth over the filled joints.

CUTTING A CORNICE (CROWN MOLDING)

1. Make up a large mitre block big enough to hold the cornice, and use this and a tenon saw to make accurate 45° cuts for internal and external corners.
2. Some cornice manufacturers supply a paper template that enables cutting lines to be marked accurately for internal and external corners.
3. When using cut pieces to complete a wall, mark off the length required directly, square a line across the cornice with a pencil and cut it to length.

Small plants can be displayed more creatively than just in individual pots. Plant them in groups in planters or baskets, or in a shallow container on a pedestal. You can even create a miniature garden in a large bottle. An advantage of grouping plants is that you can get away with less than perfect specimens. A plant with lopsided growth, or one that is bare at the base, can be arranged so that its defects are hidden by other plants.

Grouped plants also benefit from the microclimate created when plants are grown together. The local humidity is likely to be a little higher as the leaves tend to protect each other from drying air and cold draughts, and it is easier to keep the compost (potting soil) evenly moist in a large container than a small one. Groupings are ideal for self-watering containers and for plants grown hydroponically, and simply ensuring a steady and even supply of moisture produces better growth.

Pedestals make good bases for plant displays. If you have an attractive pedestal, use short trailers that will cascade over the pot but will not completely hide the pedestal under a curtain of leaves. Plants with an arching rather than a cascading habit are also ideal for a pedestal where you want to show off both pot and pedestal. Another display idea is a pot-et-flour arrangement. This makes an ideal centerpiece, and gives plenty of scope for artistic presentation.

The still, protected and humid environment of a sealed bottle garden, with moisture re-circulating as it condenses and runs down the glass, makes it possible to grow many small jungle and rainforest type plants that would soon die in a normal room environment. Yet, if you leave the top off and water very carefully, a bottle garden can also be a pretty way to display those plants that enjoy less humid conditions

PLANTING A PEDESTAL ARRANGEMENT

Fill a wide, shallow, stable container with a layer of compost (potting soil).Choose a mixture of flowering and foliage plants for a spectacular display. Try them for position while still in their pots, until you are happy with the arrangement.
Remove the plants from their pots for final planting. Set those at the edge at an angle so that they tumble over the side.
Water, then sit the container in a saucer and position it on the pedestal.

CREATING A POT-ET-FLELJR WITH FOAM

1. If you are using a basket, line it with plastic to ensure that it is waterproof.
2. Position your foliage plants first, preferably in shallow pots.
3. Cut a block of absorbent stem-holding foam (this should be soaked overnight in water first) into pieces of the size required. Pack the pieces of foam between the pots to fill up all the gaps and hold the pots securely in position.
4. Insert your flowers (and some additional cut foliage if you wish) into the moist foam. Stand back from the arrangement and view it from a distance to see whether you are happy with the result, and add more flowers and foliage if necessary.
5. Place the arrangement in a fairly cool position, and replace the flowers and cut foliage as necessary (adding water to the foam will help to preserve them). If any of the foliage plants deteriorate in time, simply replace them with fresh ones.

PLANTING A BOTTLE GARDEN

1. Place a layer of charcoal and gravel or expanded clay granules in the bottom of a thoroughly clean, fairly deep bottle. Add compost (potting soil), using a funnel or cone made from a sheet of thick paper or thin cardboard as a guide.
2. If necessary, remove a little of the compost from the plants to make insertion easier. Unless the neck of the bottle is very narrow, you should be able to insert the plants without difficulty. If you cannot get your hand into the bottle, use implements such as those shown to lower the plants into position. Add another layer of charcoal and gravel or expanded clay granules around the bases of the plants.
3. After tamping the compost around the roots (use a cotton reel on the end of a cane if necessary), mist the plants and compost. If necessary, direct the spray to remove compost adhering to the sides of the bottle. This type of open-topped bottle will require careful watering. Place it in good light, but away from direct sun as the plants may easily be scorched through the glass.

Abdominal pain

This can be caused by indigestion, colic or wind, and antacids or charcoal tablets will help to relieve the symptoms quickly. Anyone suffering from abdominal pain accompanied by diarrhea, vomiting or fever should be seen by a doctor.

Bad breath

Bad breath may simply be the result of smoking or eating spicy foods, but can also be caused by gum disease. Cleaning teeth regularly and using dental floss will ensure the health of gums and, with the use of antiseptic mouth washes, the problem should disappear. If gums are not the problem, there may be a digestive disorder and you should seek the advice of a doctor.

Chickenpox

In the first few days a slight fever may occur, which can be treated with paracetamol. Try to prevent a child from scratching the spots, as this may lead to infection. A daily bath or shower will prevent the spots from becoming infected, and calamine lotion applied afterwards will help to reduce and relieve the itching.

Colds

Resting as much as possible and taking plenty of fluids will help to clear up a cold quickly. Aspirin or paracetamol will help to reduce the discomfort and lower fever, and medicines containing decongestants will ease congestion.

The herbalists’ traditional standby is an infusion of equal amounts of peppermint (Memiku piperita),elderilower (Sumbucus nigra) and yarrow (Achillea millefolium). Taken hot just before going to bed, this will induce a sweat, and if the cold is caught early enough, may stop it altogether.

Cold sores

After the initial infection, the virus that causes cold sores lies dormant in nerve cells until, under the right conditions, it re-activates and causes the familiar blistering. The blisters are highly contagious, so avoid touching them as the virus can easily be transferred. Cold-sore creams are available from chemists (drugstores). They should be applied when the symptoms of prickling start, but before blisters appear.

Constipation

Lack of dietary fiber and exercise, and an insufficient fluid intake can cause constipation. Eat plenty of foods containing bran, whole meal (wholegrain) bread, vegetables, pulses and fruits. If the problem persists, it would be advisable to see a doctor.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

The main launches of alternative medicine are: acupuncture, the ancient Chinese practice of inserting needles into the body to restore the balance of vital energy, which can be used for a wide range of conditions, including headaches, sprains and even strokes. The others are osteopathy and chiropractic, which involve the manipulation of bones and joints; and homeopathy, which takes into account the patient as a whole rather than just the physical symptom and treats them accordingly. You may wish to try some of the homeopathic remedies, available at many chemists (drugstores) and health food shops, for nesting simple complaints at home, but for a full diagnosis of a serious complaint, it is essential to see a qualified homeopathic doctor.

If you do try alternative medicine for treating more serious conditions, let both your orthodox doctor and the alternative practitioner know about each other. Tell each of them what the other has prescribed and about any medicines or treatments you are already having. Make sure you see a fully qualified practitioner before embarking on any new treatment.

Convulsions

Convulsions usually affect small children and are often the result of a high fever. These are known as febrile convulsions, and will only last for a few minutes at a time. Reduce the child’s temperature by sponging with tepid water. Once the convulsion has passed, paracetamol elixir will help to reduce the fever. Always call a doctor even when the convulsion has stopped.

Coughs

Numerous cough remedies are available, depending on the type of cough, ask your pharmacist for advice. Whichever treatment you use, if a cough does not improve within a few days, seek professional help, especially for children. Breathing in steamy air can help to loosen phlegm, and inhaling a few drops of eucalyptus oil in a bowl of hot water can have a cleansing effect.

This is an area where herbs are of special benefit; if in doubt get qualified treatment. Choose from one or a mixture of the following, taken as warm infusions. Coltsfoot (Tictsilagofatfara), one of the best cough remedies, particularly for irritating, spasmodic coughs, will soothe, loosen mucus and reduce the spasm. llyssop(1-1,tssopus officinalis) is a calming and relaxing expectorant for a cough that is associated with restlessness and irritation. For a harsh, dry and painful cough always include marshmallow (Althea ojicinalis) in a mixture, to ease the soreness. Thyme (Thymus valgaris) is powerfully antiseptic and relieves a dry cough linked with a respiratory infection. As an expectorate, white horehound (Manubiunt valgare) frees up thick, sticky mucus.

Aromatherapy oils used in a steam inhalation can help a cough do its job mote effectively; they can be chosen to soothe the lining of the air passages, fight infection if needed, and loosen mucus to make it easier to be removed. Soothing oils include benzoin and lavender; thyme and eucalyptus are antiseptic; and frankincense or marjoram increase expectoration. Choose a blend that you like the smell of. Essential oils have an ancient link with water and have been used since classical times.

Diarrhea

Loose, frequent bowel movements can happen as a short term reaction to infection, inflammation or food poisoning, and as such are quite a positive, cleansing action. A common experience is holiday diarrhea, and this is usually a response to exposure to unfamiliar bacteria.

As a herbal treatment if mild food poisoning or infection has upset the bowels, try eating garlic as a natural gut disinfectant. Agrimony (Aggiimontacapawria), astringent and healing to the inflamed and swollen membrane lining the gut, is helpful in mild gastro-enteritis. Chamomile, (Chamomillarecutiut), one of the first herbs for many digestive disorders, is calming and anti-inflammatory, and so reduces the impact of tension on the digestive tract. Meadowsweet (Filipenduio ulmaria) will help to settle an acidic stomach. Ribwort (Amigo lanceolaut) has excellent toning, soothing and healing properties for use in diarrhea from many causes where there is inflammation. Thyme (Thymuscalgaris) will fight infections and improve digestion generally, settling churning, loose bowels and killing harmful bacteria.

Massage of the abdomen with antiseptic and relaxing oils like chamomile, lavender and neroli can ease diarrhea caused by minor upsets and also by anxiety and nervousness. Eucalyptus can be used in the same way if an infection is definitely suspected as the cause. Add fennel or ginger if there are griping pains with the diarrhea. For all these oils, dilute to 3 per cent in a base oil.

Causes of diarrhea vary, some foods have a laxative effect naturally, for instance prunes or figs, so over indulgence will give temporary diarrhea. Stress and anxiety often increase peristalsis and hurry bowel contents through. Repeated diarrhea may indicate more complex digestive problems and should be treated professionally. Prolonged diarrhea, especially in young children, can be quite serious as it causes dehydration; ensure adequate fluid intake and seek professional advice.

A simple yet dramatically effective rehydration drink can be made by dissolving 5 ml/1 tsp salt and 15 ml/ 1 tbsp sugar in 600 m1/I pt/21/2 cups of boiled water. Keep in the refrigerator in a screw-topped bottle and give small amounts frequently, use for a short time only.

Earache

This can be the result of a heavy cold, or of an infection of the inner or outer ear causing pain and deafness. Aspirin or paracetamol will help the pain. See a doctor if fluid builds up behind the ear causing it to rupture and the fluid to seep out.

Hot compresses over the ear are the most effective home herbal treatment; chamomile (Chamontitla recutita) maybe used as an infusion for this purpose. Taking garlic internally will help to reduce any catarrh and fight infection. If on professional examination the eardrum is not perforated, then crush some garlic into 5 m1/1 tsp of olive oil; this is warmed to blood temperature and a few drops gently inserted into the ear for a local antibiotic.

Two very good essential oils to draw the inflammation outwards as hot compresses are chamomile and lavender; or try a combination of both. The pungency of garlic and other bulbs and fruits, speeds up the metabolism and acts as an antiseptic.

Ear ache in children

Ear aches, especially in children, need to be treated quickly as an infection within the middle ear can be both painful and damaging. Speedy home help can be very useful to avoid these problems, but get medical help if the ear ache worsens or persists.

Eye infections

Conjunctivitis is a common eye infection that results in sticky eyelids and sore, bloodshot eyes. Make up a dilute solution of 1 part bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) to 20 parts of boiled and then cooled water, and use cotton-wool (absorbent cotton) swabs to gently ease the sticky ‘glue’ from the eyelids. Always use a fresh swab on each eye.

Food poisoning

The sufferer should have plenty of rest and only be given fluids for 24 hours. With an adult, call a doctor if the condition does not improve within this period. Food poisoning can be more serious with children and the elderly, so they should be watched carefully. Call a doctor straight away if a baby or young child is suffering from sickness and diarrhea.

Hay fever

Hay fever symptoms can be similar to those of a common cold. Antihistamine medicines can be prescribed by your doctor, and air purifiers in the house can help to reduce airborne irritants.

Headaches

A doctor should be seen for long-lasting, acute and recurring headaches, as they could be caused by another ailment. However, a rest in a quiet, and possibly darkened, room, a cold compress on the forehead and an analgesic will be sufficient to deal with most headaches.

Indigestion

This can be caused by eating too large a meal or rich and spicy foods, or by eating in a hurry or just before going to bed. For immediate relief take antacids. Alternatively, 2.5 ml/1/2 tsp of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) dissolved in a glass of water will relieve indigestion.

Herbal teas may well sort out indigestion. Choose from the following. Chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) relieves the effects of over-eating, and being in a stressed state. Lemon balm settles a churning stomach due to nervous indigestion, whether related to meals or not. Meadowsweet is good for acid indigestion, especially if accompanied by some looseness in the bowels. Peppermint (Meruha piperita) is good for indigestion coupled with flatulence and bloated abdomen, or even nausea. Also think of taking slippery elm (Minus fiduct) if indigestion pains are persistent, either 5 ml/1 tsp of the powder thoroughly blended in a cupful of water, or the pure tablets, with one or more meals, to soothe the stomach.
A warm compress of some essential oils, including chamomile or lavender, may give some relief. For mild indigestion, try gently massaging a 2 per cent dilution of either of these into the abdomen.

Influenza

The symptoms of influenza often include fever, aching muscles, nausea, headaches, a cough, a sore throat and a running nose. A doctor may prescribe antibiotics to prevent a secondary infection from causing additional problems. Otherwise, rest in bed, plenty of fluids and an analgesic: taken every 4 hours should help.

Note: the first symptoms of meningitis can be similar to those of influenza. If the symptoms shown are accompanied by vomiting, a stiff and sore neck and joints, a skin rash, bruising or some patchiness of the skin and an aversion to bright lights, call a doctor at once.

Insomnia

Irregular working hours, depression, stress or being in an unfamiliar room can lead to sleeplessness. A doctor can prescribe drugs to help, but try to restrict their use as it is easy to become dependent on them.

A milky drink before going to bed can be relaxing, avoid alcohol and stimulants, such as coffee and tea, as these will all only exacerbate the problem. A walk during the day in fresh air and a warm bath before going to bed may also help.

Measles

All children should be immunized against measles, but can suffer from the disease before then if they come into contact with an infected person. A blocked nose, fever and conjunctivitis are the first symptoms, followed a few days later by a red, blotchy rash spreading from the head down wards. Call your doctor to see whether the child should be examined. Otherwise, give plenty of fluids and paracetamol elixir to reduce the fever.

Mumps

This is a viral infection of the parotid glands, which are situated just in front of and below the ear. Discomfort and fever can be reduced by giving either paracetamol or aspirin, or paracetamol elixir to young children. The virus is usually infectious for up to 6 days before the swelling appears, and for 10 days after the onset of the swelling. Adult men can suffer from swollen testes and should visit a doctor.

Nausea and vomiting

The remedy of first choice is probably ginger (Zingher officinalis); either take frequent sips of a weak tea, or 10 drops of tincture in a little water, or chew a small piece of fresh ginger. Another possibility, say, for travel sickness, is to chew a little crystallized ginger, or drink flat ginger ale. Other potentially useful herbs to settle the stomach are chaitunnile (Chamomilla recurita), croon balm (Melissa officinalis) and peppermint (Mentha piperita); try weakish herb teas. All these herbs aid digestion and so can help to sort out the causes of nausea as well as the symptoms themselves.
Causes of nausea or vomiting can usually be linked to specific things, eating too much rich food, or drinking too much alcohol, anxiety or travel are common triggers. Continual feelings of nausea indicate greater disturbance; again this may be obvious as in 1110Minp, sickness of pregnancy. Where the cause is not obvious, and if symptoms are not quickly cleared up with self help, get medical advice as soon as possible. Children in particular can easily become dehydrated.

Occupational hazards

Many occupations involve excessive use of the voice, e.g. teaching, and sore throats are common place. The regular use of herbal gargles can ease this discomfort, and help you prevent loss of voice or an actual infection. Keep the throat moist by drinking liquids.

Parasites

At one time or another, most children and some adults suffer from parasites.
Fleas: are usually passed on to their host by cats, birds or other pets, or in infected bedding, carpets or upholstery. Treat animals with a veterinary insecticide. Where flea bites have occurred on your skin, use an antiseptic wash to prevent infection. Spray throughout the house with a flea killer and vacuum thoroughly.

Head lice: these are tiny brown insects with 6 legs. They feed on blood and lay eggs (known as nits) which are attached to the base of the hair shaft. They are usually found behind the ears and cause irritation. If head lice are detected, the whole family should be treated with insecticidal shampoo.

Tapeworm: eggs can be seen in feces. Consult your doctor, who will prescribe a suitable medicine.

Threadworms: live in the lower bowel and lay eggs around the anus, causing itchiness. The eggs are minute, but occasionally a fine, thread-like worm may be seen around the anus or on bedding. A doctor will prescribe a suitable medicine to eradicate them.

Ticks: these live in long grass and will latch on to humans and animals to suck blood. Remove with tweezers, using a rocking motion to release them then wipe the area with an antiseptic.

Sore throats

With increased airborne pollution, smoky, dry atmospheres in air-conditioned buildings and so on, sore throats are more and more common. The irritation can range from an annoying tickle to a rasping soreness, and may be linked to other infections. Where the throat inflammation, or pharyngitis, also extends down to the larynx, the voice may be affected.

If possible, use the following herbs as tinctures for gargling; if unavailable then use cooled infusions: agrimony (Agrimorda eupatoria), sage (Salviaofficinalis) and thyme (Thymus vulgaris) are all astringent, toning up the membranes, the latter two also being quite antiseptic. For a more powerful effect try using a tincture of myrrh (Cutraniphura mulmol), together with one or more of the others. If making infusions, add two liquorice sticks to give a more soothing effect, or else use marshmallow (Althea officinalis) leaf in equal amounts with the other herb(s).

With essential oils such as benzoin or thyme, use steam inhalations. One drop only of essential oil of lemon on2.5 ml(1/2, us!) of honey acts as a local antiseptic, as well as being soothing.

It is likely that you will want to have some professional help for many home improvement projects. The experts can help you solve design problems, make sure you satisfy the requirements of the building regulations and stop you falling foul of your local government planning committee. They can also organize and manage large scale projects in a way that no home owner with a frill-rime jog could hope to do. Which experts you call in and what you get them to do for you depends on the project concerned.

You are most likely to call on the services of an architect or a building surveyor if you are building a home extension, converting a loft (attic) or carrying out major internal alterations to your house. Apart from that, many jobs around the home, such as replacing tiles on the roof, can be done safely and thoroughly by the home owner. If major repairs or renovation work is needed however, it is always worth obtaining a quote train a contractor before starting the project yourself.

While waiting for government approval, get renders(bids) for the work from contractors, prepare contracts, devise work schedules and supervise work on site. Architects and surveyors will usually charge a percentage of the project cost as their fee.

If you are planning a loft (attic) conversion, a conservatory, replacement windows, or a kitchen or bathroom refit, you can call in firms who specialize in each of these areas. Since each may offer a complete package, from computer aided design to completion, they may be very tempting to employ. However, this area is very much one of ‘buyer beware’. If you decide to use this route, try to find a firm that either comes with a personal recommendation or is prepared to put you in touch with several satisfied customers. Read the contract offered by the firm in detail, querying any unclear terms and, above all, do not part with any money in advance.

Calling in professional help with your home improvements raises a few questions, since you are effectively handing over the work to a third party. You need to keep control over the job to ensure you get the results you want. If you need contractors to carry out the work for you, decide first of all whether you want a main contractor to run the entire project and bring in his or her own specialist subcontractors, rooters, plasterers, plumbers, electricians and so on, for individual parts of the job.

The alternative is to employ those sub-contractors yourself for the parts of the job that are beyond your abilities. As always, the best way of finding contractors and subcontractors is by personal recommendation. If you are employing an architect on your project, he or she may be able to recommend firms in your area.

Other ways of finding contractors include local newspaper advertisements, telephone directories and trade associations, which will send lists of their members working in your area. One last method involves looking round your area for houses where projects similar to yours are being carried out. Knock at the door and ask the owner how the work is going; people cannot resist discussing things if they are going well.

What a home improvement project will cost is of prime importance to every householder. If you are doing the job yourself, make contact with all the relevant local trade suppliers builders and other specialist merchants, plus second hand outlets such as salvage yards, and explain to them what you are doing and what your requirements are. Some projects will be easier to price than others, but suppliers will generally be eager to help you estimate costs if there is an order in it for them.

Don’t forget about hire (rental) shops for the equipment not included in your do-it-yourself toolkit. It is also worth hiring (or even better, buying) heavy duty versions of your existing power tools, which are likely to be burnt out by the sort of use they will get on a major improvement project. If you are employing an architect, he or she will be responsible for obtaining costs for the job. If you are putting the entire job in the hands of builders, they will be responsible for pricing the job and for buying all the materials.

Never employ any contractors on a home-improvement project without a contract, however simple. This will give both parties a clear description of what the job involves and who is responsible for what. Above all, it will give each party the protection of the law if the other breaks its terms. A simple job probably needs no more than a letter of agreement. This should include a description of the work to be done, the price, the agreed starting and finishing dates and details of how payments will be made. On more complex jobs, a contractor’s derailed quotation plus your signature will constitute a valid contract. A builder will save you the trouble of hiring specialist equipment unlikely to be found in many a home owner’s toolkit.

No plant can survive without water, yet more plants probably die from overwatering than from under watering. Getting a grip on this simple procedure is one of the essentials of good plant care in the home. There are no fixed ‘rules’ about watering. How much a plant needs, and how often, depends not only on the plant but also the kind of pot (clay pots need watering more often than plastic ones), the compost (potting soil), (peat-based composts retain more water than loam-based), and the temperature and humidity of the environment.

When you water, fill the pot to the brim, dribbles are not sufficient. If the root ball has completely dried out, water may run straight through, down the inside of the pot, in which case stand the pot in a bucket of water until the air bubbles stop rising. After watering, always check whether surplus water is sitting in the saucer or cache-pot. This will not matter if there are pebbles or marbles to keep the bottom of the pot out of contact with the moisture, but otherwise you must tip out the extra water. Failure to tip outstanding water is the most common cause of problems. With just a few exceptions, if you leave most ordinary houseplants standing in water for a long period, they will probably die.

For easy and convenient watering, choose a watering can that is well balanced to hold and has a long, narrow spout that makes it easy to direct the water to the compost (potting soil) rather than over the plant.

Examine the pots daily if possible; appearance alone can be a guide. Loam based composts look paler when dry than when moist. A dry surface does not mean that the compost is dry lower down, but, if it looks damp, you will know that you do not need to water. The touch test is useful for peat based compost. Press a finger into the surface; you will know immediately if it feels very dry or very wet. The bell test is useful for clay pots. Push a cotton reel on to a garden cane and tap the pot: a dull thud indicates moist compost; a clear ring suggests dry compost.

Tap water is far from ideal for watering, but most houseplants will tolerate it. If the water is hard (has a high calcium or magnesium content), however, you need to make special arrangements for plants that react badly to alkaline soil or compost. These include aphelandras, azaleas, hydrangeas, orchids, rhododendrons and saint paulias. Rain water is usually recommended for these plants, but a good supply is not always available. If your tap water is only slightly hard, simply filling the watering cans and allowing the water to stand overnight may be sufficient. For harder water, try boiling it; part of the hardness will be deposited in the form of scale, and you can use the water once it has cooled.

Just a few plants tolerate standing with their roots in water, like this cyperus. With these you can add water to the saucer or outer container, but never do this unless you know the plant grows naturally in marshy places.

HOLIDAY-CARE TIPS

• Porous wicks are sold for insertion into the base of a plant pot, which is then stood above a reservoir of water. You can make your own porous wicks by cutting a piece of capillary matting (available at all good garden centers) into strips, as shown above. Make sure that the wicks and compost (potting soil) are moist before you go on holiday, and that the wick is pushed well into the compost.
• If it is summer, stand as many plants as possible outdoors. Choose a shady, sheltered position, and plunge the pots up to their rims in the soil. Apply a thick mulch of chipped hark or peat over the pots to keep them cool and to conserve moisture. Provided that you water them well before you leave, most plants will survive a week like this.
• Move plants that are too delicate to go outdoors into a few large groups in a cool position out of direct sunlight.

Hydroculture

Watering correctly is an acquired skill, but, with practice, you will come to learn exactly how much or how little water your plants need. If you do find watering difficult or time consuming, however, other alternatives would be to use self watering containers, or to try the technique of hydroculture (also known as hydroponics) which will enable you to grow plants successfully with the minimum of attention. Hydroculture is a method of growing plants without soil or compost (potting soil). Watering is normally only necessary every fortnight, and feeding is only a twice yearly task.

You can buy plants that are already growing hydroponically, but, once you realize how easy hydroculture plants are to look after, you will probably want to start off your own plants from scratch. Not all plants respond well to hydroculture, so you may need to experiment, but the range of suitable plants is surprisingly wide, and includes amaryllis, aspidistra, some begonias, ficus, saint paulia and yucca, as well as cacti and succulents.

Routine care is very simple, wait until the water indicator (see step 3) registers minimum, but do not water immediately, allow an interval of two or three days before filling again. Always use tap water because the special ion-exchange fertilizer used for hydroculture (available from garden centres) depends on the chemicals in tap water to function effectively. The water must be at room temperature. As there is no compost (potting soil), cold water has an immediate chilling effect on the plant, a common cause of failure with hydroculture. Make a note of when you replace the fertilizer, and renew it every six months. Some systems use the fertilizer in a ‘battery’ fitted within the special hydroculture pot, but otherwise you can just sprinkle it on to be washed in with a little water.

• Choose a young plant and wash the roots free of all traces of compost (potting soil).Place the plant in a suitable sized container with slatted or mesh sides.
• Pack expanded clay granules around the roots, being careful to damage the roots as little as possible.
• Insert the inner pot into a larger, watertight container, first placing a layer of clay granules on the base to raise the inner pot to a level of about 12 mm/1/2 in below the rim. Insert a water level tube (available from garden centers). If you cannot find one specially designed to indicate the actual water level, use one that indicates how moist the roots are.
• Pack with more clay granules to secure the inner pot and water indicator. Sprinkle special hydroculture fertilizer (available from garden centers) over the granules.
• Wash the fertilizer down as you water to the maximum level on the indicator. If the indicator does not show an actual level, add a volume of water equal to one quarter of the capacity of the container and only water again when the indicator shows dry. A few months on and the house plant is flourishing.

If you find watering a chore, self-watering pots may be the answer. The moisture is drawn up into the compost (potting soil) through wicks from a reservoir below, and you will need to water much less frequently.