Tag Archives: puppy care

Feeding a Puppy

The diet program for pups is more complex, as they are growing rapidly and require frequent meals because of limited stomach capacity.

At two to three months, puppies require four meals a day: a morning meal, which could be minced meat or a suitable commercial ration, particularly a semi-moist type of food, together with a granular dog meal. The midday meal and the mid-afternoon meal should consist of milk with cereal, baby foods or breakfast cereals. The evening meal should be the same as the morning meal, and given an hour before bedtime to encourage the puppy to empty his bowels and urinate on his last trip outside. Water should be available at all times.

From three to six months, three meals a day are adequate; eliminate the late afternoon meal and gradually increase the evening meal. Between six and nine months, when the puppy has nearly matured, two meals a day are adequate: morning and evening.

From nine months of age on, one meal a day is all that is necessary. It is important to realize that at this age the dog has finished growing and its nutritional requirements will change. If the dog is still fed a number of times a day, it will become obese.

Before dogs were domesticated they used to catch their prey and eat the hole of it. It supplied them with a balanced, nutritious diet of bones, muscles and internal organs such as the heart, kidneys, liver and lungs. It also provided various vitamins and minerals from the vegetative matter in ‘le gut of the animal eaten. Dogs had to be fit and slim enough to chase and catch their prey. After eating a large meal they would lie down and sleep it off. If they became obese they would not be fit enough to chase and kill more prey.

Dogs are very adaptable in terms of diet and because of this they have thrived in a wide variety of environments and on a wide range of diets. As result, they are probably less subject to serious dietary disease than most other animals. In the past decade, dogs have benefited from our increasing knowledge of their nutritional requirements and the application of that knowledge to prepared, commercial dog foods. Dog feeding is now much less haphazard than it was in the past, when the dog was dependent on its owner’s variable and often rudimentary understanding of nutrition.

Milk given to young puppies causes worms. This myth has been perpetuated by the fact that puppies begin to drink milk at three to four weeks, at about the same age as they start to pass round white worms (`milk worms’) from infestations acquired in the mother’s womb.

Meat gives worms. Any meat, other than that purchased from a butcher’s ;424 shop, can give worms, even meat from a reputable pet shop. The best approach is to cook all meat bought from a pet shop.

A purebred bitch is ruined for breeding when she has pups to a mongrel or dog of another breed. This is false. Once a bitch has had a litter of pups. the womb is cleaned out and free to accept the next pregnancy. It is biologically impossible for the previous sire to exert any genetic influence on subsequent pregnancies.

More than one father to a litter of pups is impossible. This is incorrect. A bitch may be promiscuous during her heat cycle so that different eggs within her womb may be fertilized by sperm from different dogs, the result being a mixed bag of pups.

Bathing a Dog

Some dogs obviously require more grooming than others, and a variety of tools are available for this purpose, ranging from combs and brushes to scissors and clippers. It is important to train your dog to accept grooming as part of its regular routine. Indeed, if neglected, a dog’s coat may become so tangled and matted that the poor creature will have to be anesthetized in order to restore its coat to a good condition.

An unkempt coat will provide a refuge for parasites, and if soiled with fecal matter is likely to attract flies. These may then lay their eggs here, with the resulting maggots actually attacking the dog’s skin. This condition, described as ‘fly strike’, can prove fatal, since the maggots liberate toxins into the blood stream, as well as permitting infection of the bodily tissues.

Daily grooming is to be recommended for most breeds, and it can be helpful to allow a puppy to become used to the sensation, even though its coat will probably need less attention than that of an adult dog.

In most cases it will be easier to groom the dog on a table, as this saves having to bend down. Make sure that the surface is comfortable and not slippery. At first, the dog may be reluctant to stay put, so restrain it by the collar. Again, it is surprising that some people never familiarize their dogs with the sensation of being picked up. In the case of a particularly large breed this is perhaps understandable, because of the sheer weight. In the case of a puppy, it is reasonably straightforward, using the hands to hold the body between the forelegs, and supporting the hindquarters on an arm. With a larger dog, however, place one arm around the hindquarters with the other encircling the forelimbs. It may be helpful to bend down to do this so as to minimize the strain on your back, especially with a heavy dog.

There is no need to fill the bath to the top. As a guide, sufficient water to submerge most of the dog’s legs will be adequate. This will not induce it to panic. You should always test the temperature of the water to make sure that it is neither too hot nor too cold before putting the dog in. A tepid bath is to be preferred.

When you are giving a dog a bath for the first time, it may be helpful to have someone else to help you. They can hold the dog, as it is likely to try to leap out of the bath. You will need a measuring jug, shampoo and towels on hand. Choose a special canine shampoo, and use this in accordance with the instructions, especially if it is medicated and active against parasites such as fleas, for example.

Never start by pouring water over the dog’s head. Instead, using the measuring jug, bale the water gently over its back so that this runs down the sides of the body, which will be less alarming. While at first your dog may be nervous, quiet words of encouragement should help to overcome its fears. Clean all over the body before carefully shampooing the head, taking care to avoid the eyes. You may prefer to use a flannel to clean this area, as this will afford greater control.

In order to wash the shampoo out of the coat, you may prefer to lift the dog out of the bath and rinse the coat separately. Alternatively, you will need to empty the bath and refill it with clean water. Whenever you take the dog out of the bath, however, it is advisable to stand back, because invariably the dog will shake itself to remove water from its coat. You can then use a towel to dry the dog as much as possible, making sure that it does not become chilled and start shivering.

If you choose to use a hair-dryer, allow the dog to become used to the noise at close quarters. You may well find that it is scared of this unfamiliar sensation at first. Take care not to make the air jet too warm either, as this will be uncomfortable for your pet. As in many of the less obvious aspects of dog training, care over details such as this will help to ensure that there is no adverse reaction on the part of the dog. It is much better to attempt to prevent fears arising, rather than having to rectify them at a later stage.

Young dogs, especially those with a show career in front of them, need to become accustomed to regular bathing and drying. Persuading them to sit still can be difficult at first. A hair-dryer can be of great value in drying your dog’s coat, while the jets of air, in conjunction with a brush, may also help to undo any tangles after a bath. Professional grooming expertise is available, and this may be recommended if you are about to enter a show. However, much of the enjoyment of success comes from carrying out the preparatory work yourself.

After weaning, it is never too early to introduce a dog to the sensation of being groomed. The coats of many puppies may be less profuse than that of adults. and so grooming will be more straightforward. If you have a hatchback with It is better to transport dogs collapsible rear seats, then it is individually, and partitioned easy to fit an appropriate traveling cages can be acquired traveling cage for your dog — for this purpose. A rug or old thereby preventing damage to blanket should be placed in the the upholstery.

Dog Medications

To some people, giving the dog medicines is an awesome task. Here are some helpful hints.

Make sure the dog finishes the course prescribed. In ear cases, for example, treatment often contains a local anesthetic to give the dog immediate relief and the dog may appear well very quickly, simply because the anesthetic has removed the pain. If you stop the course at this point the problem will reappear because the medication has not had time to work. Similarly with antibiotics—sometimes an infection will appear to be better but has, in fact, not cleared up completely.

Ear Drops

hake the vial for at least a minute. This re-suspends any particle matter in the solution. Clean the dog’s earlobes with methylated spirits and cotton-wool. Using a cotton bud, clean out the ear canal. The ear canal is fairly long, with a right-angled bend at the bottom leading to the ear drum, so it is very difficult to touch (and consequently damage) the ear drum. Cleaning in this way allows the medication to get right to the infection, rather than be deactivated by debris. After administering the required number of drops to the ear, hold the dog’s head firmly while massaging the ear canal down behind the jaw. This will allow the drops time to reach the depths of the ear canal before the dog begins to shake its head.

Eye Ointments and Drops

Medication should be given six times daily because constant secretion of tears washes away medication within forty minutes. Always follow the instructions exactly. Take advantage of the dog’s third eyelid and place the medication in the conjunctival sac. With the forefinger and thumb of one hand, gently push the upper and lower eyelids towards the nose. The thin eyelid will cross the eye in the opposite direction and form a membranous sac. In this way the dog cannot see the ointment or medication being administered. After the medication has been administered to the eye, hold the eyelids together and massage gently.

Most medications designed to be put in the food are palatable, but sometimes a fussy eater will reject them. To solve this problem, starve the dog for twenty-four hours and then place the medication in about a quarter of the normal food allocation. When the dog finishes, feed another quarter to let it lick the bowl along with any remaining medication. For future meals, keep the appetite keen until the medication program has been completed. In this way the dog will be so hungry at each feed that it will be prepared to eat the medicated food.


Solutions are best administered with a plastic disposable syringe. Elevate the dog’s head to 45 degrees and tilt the head to one side. Introduce the tip of the syringe to the corner of the dog’s mouth on the upper side. Always administer the solution very slowly into the pocket between the lip and the teeth so the dog has time to swallow. Fluid administered too quickly, without the dog having time to swallow, can enter the lungs and cause pneumonia and possible death.


Before administering any tablets, make sure that the dog has had a small portion to eat, otherwise the medication may be rejected by the stomach and the dog will vomit the tablets. A few dogs will take tablets in some minced meat, mush or sweets, but always observe the animal for ten minutes or so afterwards to make sure that it did in fact swallow the tablets. The surest method of administration is to open the dog’s mouth wide by placing your thumb and forefinger around the upper lips and pushing the lips over the of fingers. dog’s teeth with your fingers, so that if the dog tries to bite or clamp its jaws Popping the pill.

Opening the Mouth: Note Position

Pushing the pill over the back of its lips will be pressed uncomfortably against its teeth. Pull the dog’s head the tongue. back and place the tablets at the back of the tongue as if you were trying to push them right down the throat (it is impossible to push them into the windpipe). Close the dog’s mouth, keeping it elevated, and allow the dog to swallow. If it does not swallow, tickle its throat. Lock the dog in a confined space for fifteen to twenty minutes to ensure that the dog does not regurgitate the tablets. If it does, try again till they stay down.


The most effective bandage for the dog is a 5-centimeter-wide adhesive bandage. The adhesive sticks to the hair and stops the dog tearing the bandage off. Most other varieties of bandage are useless. To remove these bandage and use a razor blade to cut the bandage against the instrument. The bandage can then be removed from the hair by dabbing the margin with methylated spirits or ether, so dissolving the adhesive.

Remove an adhesive bandage with a blunt instrument.

A plastic bucket will prevent a dog from licking wounds.

Dog Catcher

Steps in applying an alternative method of restraint to the muzzle of a savage dog.

Whenever dogs have bandages, plaster casts or any other restrictive material placed on the limbs, it is important to ensure that circulation is r ing the toes. This can be tested by feeling the toes to make sure the:. warm rather than cold. Sensation can be determined by pinching the to make the dog withdraw the foot.